67 MANUAL STEERING WHAT TO REPLACE?

[Dan]

I have a 1967 Ranger shortbox with manual steering all stock, like most old trucks you"sail" it down the road instead of "steering" it. The steering wheel turns about a 1/2 turn before anything happens.

This is NOT my specialty for repair, I want to get the parts ahead of time for my mechanic so my truck isn't down for 2-3 weeks while components need to be rebuilt or replaced, so I'm looking for advice as to what most likely is causing the problem and if anything else should be replaced while we are in there.

I assume the steering gearbox itself needs replace/rebuild, would anything else be the cause of this worn steering condition? Or anything else I should replace...rag joint, steering couple etc.?

Thanks for any advice, I do plan to get a steering box at Lares already rebuilt and then drop off my core later.

[jzjames]

Drag link comes to mind. Gotta check it while someone turns the wheel back and forth.

[sargentrs]

I assume the steering gearbox itself needs replace/rebuild, would anything else be the cause of this worn steering condition? Or anything else I should replace...rag joint, steering couple etc.?

So many things can contribute to steering control issues. Unless you totally trust your mechanics ethics, skills and knowledge, inspection, analysis and troubleshooting should be performed before throwing any money at the problem. Steering boxes do have some adjustment capabilities to them. All rubber components deteriorate and contribute to the "wandering Ford" syndrome. Bad cab mounts and worn king pins can also cause steering issues. Before replacing a bunch of stuff, inspect the whole system loaded and unloaded. Start by jacking up the front with the tires barely off the ground. Stick a pry bar under the tire and lift up and down while watching the king pin area. More that slight movement is a sign of worn king pin bushings. While doing this, also look to the axle pivot bushings and radium arm bushings. Inspect them for cracks and breaks in the rubber. Grab the sides of the tires and turn them in and out while watching the tie rods, drag link and pitman arm. Look for excessive movement in all of these areas before the components react to the tires turning. Sit down in front of the truck and put your feet on the outer ends of the I-beams. Hold the bumper while forcing the beams front to rear, inspecting the radius arms and axle pivots. Make sure all the hardware is tight and torqued to spec. Turn the steering wheel while checking play in the rag joint and steering box. Also monitor the lower column bearing area. Your looking to locate the source of the slop in your entire steering system. Inspect your shocks and coil springs. Perform the same inspections with the wheels on the ground. Get your alignment checked and pray that your I-beams don't need adjustment. Cold bending twin I-beams is a vanishing art and most front end shops don't have the skills or equipment to do it anymore. Inspect the condition of your tires, both front and rear. Bad rear tires will also affect your steering control even if your front tires are in good condition. Most of the rubber components can be replaced easily yourself. Conditions of the roads you regularly travel will also make you think your truck has problems that it doesn't. Excessive traffic "valleys" in the lanes will cause your truck to wander back and forth as your tires rise and fall in the dips created by heavy traffic on the asphalt. Finally, it's 45 year old truck with 1960's engineering and technology. Don't expect it drive like your 21st century car or truck. It's one of the little "joys" of driving a vintage vehicle.

[Dan]

Thank you a lot of great advice there! I do plan to install Dream Beams lowering kit (bolt in) at the same time, so that will eliminate the I-beams and king pins, we will make sure to check the other items listed as well.

I am very lucky that my mechanic has his own shop and builds T-Buckets and Pro-Street classic trucks "in his spare time" all of which fetch hefty sums, in fact he usually doesn't even have to place them for sale people just offer him cash deals, he really does nice work.

I've had heart issues and surgery the last 2 years so I really cannot turn wrenches much at all anymore, so i am REALLY grateful to have a guy like him nearby that loves to work on the classics and knows his stuff. That's why i try to do my part and make everything as easy as possible up front for him.

Thanks again!

[sargentrs]

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.