Just thinking this morning. I really want to do a wood bed in my fleetside (non-stepside) but I don't plan on using the generic wood bed kits. I know a gentlemen that deals with old reclaimed wood and large tree wood. My thought is to get 2 or 3 planks from a large tree, these can be 30-60" wide, 12' long and plan them down to ?? don't know what the typical thickness is for a wood bed, don't know which type of wood yet either.
So back to the subject. When all of you with trucks that no longer haul anything or anything large in your bed, any issues driving with a light rear end? any creative fixes for it? I know its not too big of an issue, but I have had the rear end of a few trucks "come loose" from the road while I'm driving in rain or taking a turn a little fast. I know, "change my driving habits" but when you have some umph in the front, its fun to hit the gas sometimes.
again, just thinking.
unloaded bed issue
Moderator: FORDification
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- Blue Oval Fan
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unloaded bed issue
1971 F250 Camper Special, family owned since 1972
1983 Cherokee, last of the big ones, bought in Italy, family owned since 1998
1965 Corvair Corsa Convertible, 140 engine, 4 speed.
HE guides my path, forgives me when I stray and lights my life
1983 Cherokee, last of the big ones, bought in Italy, family owned since 1998
1965 Corvair Corsa Convertible, 140 engine, 4 speed.
HE guides my path, forgives me when I stray and lights my life
- colnago
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Re: unloaded bed issue
A cheap creative fix is to get a couple hundred pounds of bags of sand, and throw them in the back. Anything to put some weight on the rear wheels.
Joseph
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
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- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: unloaded bed issue
well, yea there is that, but I was thinking if anyone put something like those tractor weights (used on pull trucks too) under the bed, or maybe like something heavy they could just fabricate a way to slide into or bolt onto / into the frame/bed.
1971 F250 Camper Special, family owned since 1972
1983 Cherokee, last of the big ones, bought in Italy, family owned since 1998
1965 Corvair Corsa Convertible, 140 engine, 4 speed.
HE guides my path, forgives me when I stray and lights my life
1983 Cherokee, last of the big ones, bought in Italy, family owned since 1998
1965 Corvair Corsa Convertible, 140 engine, 4 speed.
HE guides my path, forgives me when I stray and lights my life
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- 100% FORDified!
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Re: unloaded bed issue
Fill your spare tire full of concrete.
- 1972hiboy
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Re: unloaded bed issue
That is exactly what I thought this morning when I read this...........cep62 wrote:Fill your spare tire full of concrete.
Rich
1973 f350 super c/s 460/c6 22k orig miles
1972 f350 srw crewcab special 390
1972 f250 4x4 sport custom 390fe Red
1972 f250 4x4 custom 360 FE " Ranger Ric"
1972 f250 4x4 custom 84k og miles 390
1971 f250 4x4 sport custom 56k og miles. 360
1970 f250 4x4 428 fe hp60 205 d60
Dont eat yellow snow.....
1973 f350 super c/s 460/c6 22k orig miles
1972 f350 srw crewcab special 390
1972 f250 4x4 sport custom 390fe Red
1972 f250 4x4 custom 360 FE " Ranger Ric"
1972 f250 4x4 custom 84k og miles 390
1971 f250 4x4 sport custom 56k og miles. 360
1970 f250 4x4 428 fe hp60 205 d60
Dont eat yellow snow.....
- sargentrs
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Re: unloaded bed issue
Plane the planks a little thinner and screw some sheet metal to them on the underside before installing? I'd paint it first.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: unloaded bed issue
Put a heavy rear bumper on it with a way to add extra weight into it or onto it when you need it.
Maybe a tubular bumper you can fill with water?
Maybe a tubular bumper you can fill with water?
1972 f100 4x4 4 inch lift with dump box kit-sold
1969 f250 4x4 highboy in progress.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=85251
Kyle
1969 f250 4x4 highboy in progress.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=85251
Kyle
- farmallmta
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perfect solution for light back end
It won't be that light if your mother-in-law rides back there. I give mine an umbrella for bad weather rides, since I'm a considerate fellow. And consider switching to glass bottled beer from canned: the empties you toss back there will accumulate more weight.
You didn't mention the species of wood you're considering, or how it's going to be processed to eliminate the possibility of shrinkage cracks and cupping which tend to be issues with wide planks. If you're interested in the look of a solid plank, you might want to consider a rot-resistant species that is also quite hard and therefore weather and load tolerant, such as walnut. Instead of the single wide plank, you could have it ripped into conventional lumber dimensions, properly dried, then formed into a wide plank, possibly in an interesting design like herringbone or basketweave. Any woodworker like a custom door shop or cabinet shop can do it. Pure raw tung oil combined with turpentine and pine tar (equestrian supply stores carry pine tar) applied to all sides and edges prior to installation is your ticket to preserving the wood.
I'm thinking that a liner underneath the wood, like the sheetmetal suggested in another post, could trap water and dirt, thereby contributing more to decay and mold and other problems.
You didn't mention the species of wood you're considering, or how it's going to be processed to eliminate the possibility of shrinkage cracks and cupping which tend to be issues with wide planks. If you're interested in the look of a solid plank, you might want to consider a rot-resistant species that is also quite hard and therefore weather and load tolerant, such as walnut. Instead of the single wide plank, you could have it ripped into conventional lumber dimensions, properly dried, then formed into a wide plank, possibly in an interesting design like herringbone or basketweave. Any woodworker like a custom door shop or cabinet shop can do it. Pure raw tung oil combined with turpentine and pine tar (equestrian supply stores carry pine tar) applied to all sides and edges prior to installation is your ticket to preserving the wood.
I'm thinking that a liner underneath the wood, like the sheetmetal suggested in another post, could trap water and dirt, thereby contributing more to decay and mold and other problems.