’71–72 F-100 Steering Coupling / Rag Joint Repair

[smtichy]

After looking through several web pages and videos on-line, I couldn’t find anything that clearly addressed this topic. So after a successful and relatively painless replacement of the rag joint on my ’71 F-100 Ranger XLT I thought I’d share my experience. My truck is a 2WD automatic with power steering, but that shouldn’t make a difference in the process.

First, challenge is that none of the Ford truck parts suppliers specifically have a rag joint for the 71-72 F-100. You can find them for models before '69 and after ’73. So a universal part is needed, for my successful repair I used a DORMAN p/n 31004 - STEERING COUPLING ASSEMBLY.

1. Put penetrating oil on the 2 bolts holding the rag joint to the steering assembly disk, and on bolt in the clamp at the bottom of the rag joint assembly. As well put penetrating oil on the 3 bolts on the bracket holding the steering column to the firewall, and to the bolt on the clamp around the column in front of the bracket. Let that sit a couple days, and add a bit more the day before the work.
2. Set the wheels straight, and hopefully the steering wheel then is properly horizontally aligned. If not, you will be able to sort that in this process when you mount the new. The pins on the rag joint should be on a horizontal plane. Take note of the position of everything for when you do the reassembly.
3. The area above the joint is a bit crowed by the brake lines, hopefully you have some slack there to push them aside slightly. If you have trouble getting to a bolt, a ½ turn of the steering wheel can get you access to the bolt you need.
4. Before tearing everything apart, I recommend attempting to loosen each of the critical bolts, but not remove entirely until you are sure you don’t have a problem.
5. Start with loosening the bolt on the bottom clamp of the rag joint which holds it to the spline rod coming out of the steering gear housing. This bolt may be tricky, as mine had a 10 point star shaped head. Luckily, I found that an 11mm wrench in my toolbox fit this snuggly. Otherwise this would have warranted a shopping trip for a new tool.
6. Next try to loosen the 2 bolts on the rag joint. I was able to put a wrench on the top bolt and wedge a tire iron between the steering gear assembly and rag joint to keep the column from turning. Alternatively you can get 2 wrenches in there, one on each end of the bolt.
7. Next loosen the 3 bolts on the firewall Concentric Bracket, as well as the clamp in front of that bracket. The concentric bracket can be removed from the engine compartment, for the 3 bolts, the nut on the other side in the cab is firmly fixed so it should be not needed to mess about under the carpet.
8. If everything is turning, then go ahead and completely remove the bolts from all the steps above.
9. On the firewall bracket, first loosen the steering column lower clamp, which is held in place with a carriage bolt. Best is to remove the bolt completely, and slide this forward so the gap is around the automatic transmission lever. This will allow you to remove the Concentric Bracket completely, giving you more room to move the steering column to get the rag joint out with ease. If you don’t do this the transmission lever will block movement of the column.
10. Now go into the cab and loosen the 2 steering column bolts just under the base of the where the column meets the steering wheel. You should be able to pull the steering wheel toward you as much as possible, and then slightly tighten one bolt to keep the column from sliding back down.
11. Now you should be able to remove the rag joint. NOTE it is best to completely remove the clamp bolt that holds the rag joint to the steering rod. You should be able to lever the rag joint off with a screw driver, levering against the steering gear housing.
12. Clean the splines on the steering rod, to ensure the new rag joint will slide on easily.
13. On the new rag joint REMOVE THE BOLT ON THE CLAMP COMPLETELY. If you don’t do this it will be difficult to slide the rag joint assembly onto the splines. You will notice there is a groove in the middle of the rod with the splines, this is to make room for that bolt (even though it doesn’t look like it is needed).
14. When you mount the rag joint assembly, make sure the wheels and steering wheel is straight and put the rag joint on the splines so the pins are on a vertical plane. There isn’t much room, I was able to get it to slide in from the left side, and angle slightly so it all lined up.
15. Insert the bolt into the rag joint clamp, and be sure you can tighten it. Check alignment of the steering wheel, and if good go ahead and tighten.
16. Ensure there is a bracket, or ground strap in place that connects the top and bottom of the steering column, this completes the electric connection for the horn circuit.
17. Now loose the bolts in the cab under the steering wheel and let it slide down
18. put in the 2 bolts on the rag joint to the steering column. These may give some trouble, best is to get one in and only tighten slightly. Then turn the wheel a ½ turn to get the other one in place, and tighten slightly. Now tighten each fully, you may need to switch between the 2 to make sure they are evenly snug.
19. Now reinstall the Concentric Bracket on the firewall and the steering column lower clamp.
20. Finally tighten the 2 bolts in the cab which hold the steering column to the dashboard assembly.

Steering_column.jpg

[basketcase0302]

NEED TO ADD THE FOLLOWING...
REMOVE THE GROUND STRAP THAT ATTACHES TO BOTH SIDES OF THE ASSEMBLY/REPLACE THE GROUND STRAP.

So...many guys are chasing electrical "gremlins" and other electrical issues with this being one of the most overlooked grounds on the entire truck that can lead to the same.