Rusted stuck F250 brake drums

[Ohiotinkerer]

Acquired the 67 F250 i went to look at while I was in TN - was just going to part it out but the owner has the title to it so I decided I would take the whole truck and store it at my property but here's where the fun begins......the truck has been setting outside on bare ground for 20 years and I know all the brakes are gonna be rusted to the point where it won't move. What is my best course of action to get them loose so I can get it out of where it's setting? (Can't get a tow truck in) I'm gonna have a family member start soaking them with blaster since I won't be getting it moved until next year but if the blaster and hammer method doesn't work what else could i do? The entire suspension will be getting replaced (CV front/Explorer rear) so if anything gets trashed it doesn't really matter - considered breaking them with a sledge hammer if need be. All suggestions greatly appreciated - I've dealt with this before but NEVER like this.......

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[basketcase0302]

You've got a good plan here that I've also used in the past, (luv' that PB blaster-never run out of it)!
I would also try to get the axles up on jack stands/blocks and remove the wheels, (this will enable you to spray the blaster onto the area where the studs meet the drums). The stubborn ones I'd attacked in the past always seemed to be rusted on right there at the face of where the drum meets the axle shaft.

[Ohiotinkerer]

You've got a good plan here that I've also used in the past, (luv' that PB blaster-never run out of it)!
I would also try to get the axles up on jack stands/blocks and remove the wheels, (this will enable you to spray the blaster onto the area where the studs meet the drums). The stubborn ones I'd attacked in the past always seemed to be rusted on right there at the face of where the drum meets the axle shaft.

Jacking it up is gonna be the fun part because of where it's setting......I'm gonna have to be really careful because there's nothing but bare earth under it.........I am also gonna order a 18v impact driver for the lug nuts......had the pleasure of using one for the first time a few months ago and wondered why I hadn't bought one already.......

Would love to get a set of torches back there for the kingpins and other stuff to loosen them up but I don't have access to any down there and don't want to be making any sparks because of where it's setting........he lives right next to Natchez Trace State Park and really don't want to be responsible for setting a state park on fire.......yes my luck is that bad sometimes.....

[Ranchero50]

If the rear is pointed the direction you need to go just rent a tow dolly. A 2x6x12" board makes a decent jack base.

[Ohiotinkerer]

If the rear is pointed the direction you need to go just rent a tow dolly. A 2x6x12" board makes a decent jack base.

That's the problem......the front is facing the road so I gotta at least get it to roll so I can get it out to the road and get the dolly under it......it's gonna take a 4WD truck or tractor to get it out of where it is now.....not impossible but it's gonna be a job........at least my wife approves of it so I'm not gonna be in the doghouse....... .........and it just so happens I've got some scrap treated 2X12 pieces leftover from my porch step project......

[basketcase0302]

I owned one of these for over 15 years, (had to let it go with BC #16 when I sold it as I'd permanently mounted it to the frame)-really need to get myself a new one. The "bumper jack" with many names, (hi-jack / jeep jack / farm jack / truck jack / etc) but unbeatable as I'd used mine for winching / pulling up old fence posts / and even jacked a 10 X 20' shed off of the ground once with it! more than anything! There is no better tool made to get a truck sitting on the ground up enough to get a floor jack under it. and like Jamie said about the wood blocks always better safe than sorry. That is some beautiful country up there by the park, (my bucket truck for Kangaroo-and then Walgreen's account took me up that way). That golf course in/by the park is supposed to be one of the toughest in the world!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hi-Lift-Jack-4 ... SwhAJcf2q1

[Ohiotinkerer]

Thanks for that link........I'll definitely grab one of those before I go down this fall! My mom took me down to the campground they have by the lake in the park where they go and it is beautiful there.......but I'm biased because I have always liked TN and now getting to retire to there and enjoy it everyday just puts a smile on my face..... ..........and having a retirement bump project just makes it better...... .........I would start a thread on it but it's gonna be a few years before I get there to start on it but I'm hoping to have a garage put up in the next 1-2 years so to will be setting inside until I get there.

[69Highboy]

Having (literally) dealt with about 10-12 vehicle extractions, I can recommend several methods. The first is the "Hammer-Down" method, involving a 4x4 and lead feet. That has worked on several trucks and cars I've been involved with moving, just make sure you have a clear path. The second is the "Hub Beater" technique, involving a sledge and pounding on the victim's hubs. It is occasionally used before the previous method. The final one is a truck, a trailer, some bars, and a come-along (hand winch) or a bumper winch. Use the hub beater to loosen up the brakes (50-50 chance), and then haul it onto the trailer. A method I won't recommend is a crane. It works, but I don't think you have access to one nearby. All of these were extracted, in part, by moi. All the above methods were used successfully. Photos 1 and 3 were "Hammer-Down"s, 2 is the "Come-along" and 4 is the "Wheee" method.

[Ohiotinkerer]

Actually all of yours look easier than what I have to deal with! Right now I'm hoping the PB Blaster, Milwaukee 18v impact, hub beater, and 4x4 method works because that's what I'm starting with! I would normally pass on something like this (i HATE RUST) but something is telling me it's worth it........and the price tag of free with a clean title helps also!.............

[tsherry]

Are you SURE that the brakes are frozen to the drums? I've pulled way more than my fair share of stuff outen the woods, and only had one stuck drum in probably 10 extractions.

I second the Hammer Down method. Tow straps (2) hooked to an F250 in low, and then let er go. If the tires can hold air, start by airing them up obviously, or change to a rolling tire. Once you get her rolling, it's easy from there (easy, being a relative thing...)

[Ohiotinkerer]

I know 2 are for sure.......one front and one rear.......owner told me they are.......I'm hoping the other 2 arent but setting for 20 years in one spot I'm not holding my breath. I just gotta get the rear rolling good enough to make a 60 mile trip on a tow dolly. The front has just gotta go about 80 feet out to the road to load up........if I can get the rear drums off I'm just gonna strip all the brake hardware out of them since it will be getting replaced with a Tbird irs anyway so none of it will be needed for anything......

[basketcase0302]

Even easier!

If all you have to do is get the drums off, (knowing they are trashed and probably not able to be turned)...

Take a 2 lb BFH out and go to town on the drums with it, (on the outside circumference of the drum / around it) and break them off.
You'll stand a chance damaging little that doesn't need to be replaced anyway, (just don't pound on the axle shaft face enough to damage / bend it).
The cast iron breaks a lot easier than most folks think, (yeah been there done that).

[Ohiotinkerer]

Even easier!

If all you have to do is get the drums off, (knowing they are trashed and probably not able to be turned)...

Take a 2 lb BFH out and go to town on the drums with it, (on the outside circumference of the drum / around it) and break them off.
You'll stand a chance damaging little that doesn't need to be replaced anyway, (just don't pound on the axle shaft face enough to damage / bend it).
The cast iron breaks a lot easier than most folks think, (yeah been there done that).

That's the backup plan it they refuse to come off.......

[71cc]

I've drug cars onto a trailer with wheels locked and flats. A good winch, snatch block, and hot battery will get it on there. Biggest problem I had is you have to put boards on the ramps or it will drag them with it.

[basketcase0302]

Ditto and one further than any mention above...

I hauled scrap cars for some a short time years ago during the recession of the 80's. I remember on four different occasions taking my old style Bronco, (38" mudders) and hooking onto the vehicle (I'll never forget the 63' chebby van I used this method for) and flipping them onto the roof-then dragging them up my ramps onto the trailer for their trip to the boneyard! I had an old hand crank boat winch mounted to the front of my tandem trailer and used a snatch block to drag them up onto the trailer! Also used the same method to relocate my 4' X 12' pressure treated utility shed to it's permanent home once my home was finished being built, (scary road trip of 10 miles at 1 AM in the morning as the weight of the shed caused some serious fishtailing) "don't try this at home comes to mind LOL.

The chebby van had been put out to pasture some 20+ years earlier and when I flipped it over it "accordioned" (or the entire body folded flat)!