Doing my crown vic swap, I used 2 plumb bobs on a straight piece of wood. using a sqaure I marked these spots on the frame, but the marks dont seem right from what I've been seeing on others swaps. I double checked them and my lines were center on my hubs. but these marks dont seem correct. Can anyone shed some light on whether I'll turn out with good results using these marks or not. Thanks
Red Seal Journeyman John Deere Technician
1967 Ford F-100 - FE352 V8, 3 speed manual, 2WD, long bed, custom cab.
So I cannot see the images you attached. First post has the box with an X in it and reads "Image" and the second post has a black box with white lettering stating this:
"The image you are
requesting does not exist
or is no longer available."
I don't know if everyone else cannot see them as well but if so then we cannot help.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
So what I ended up with was the same as one guy that shows his install on YouTube. I put mine where I thought it should be measuring and came up with the same measurements he did. I used center punch to mark the spot on each side for the locator pin on the CV cross member. The locator pins measured 31-1/2" from center to center on the CV cross member I have for my truck. When all said and done the center punch marks were exactly 1-1/8" in on each side of the frame and 3/8" back from the outside edge of the existing forward hole of the two existing holes in the frame where the cross member locating pin hole needs to be drilled. To illustrate this is a picture off my truck with the holes already drilled for the bolting and the locator pins.
I drilled a 1/8" hole and then welded up the two existing holes in the frame and then ground them flat top and bottom. I wanted to make sure that the step bit did not catch the closest one and figured while I was at it I would weld the other one. I also ended up welding one hole shut near the rear mounting bolts as the step bit would have got into it as well. Those holds are 1-5/16" of you are using the stock spacer tubes.
I will caution that a person needs to eye ball the wheels mounted onto the CV cross member with it under the truck. Simple use a socket and hammer to driver the locating pins out and slide it under the truck. With the fender on one side you can optimally locate the cross member. It just happened that where this guy put his and I put mine were on the original centerline of the old wheels. I have read where some guys moved it a bit front or back to their liking but I was completely fine with the stock location.
Sorry about the pictures, I'm new and still figuring out posting them on forums. I had tried Imgur as a host with those.
In your picture it looks as if the top and bottom holes align? is that correct? I would also be interested in seeing pictures of the finished product with guys that have put it in the stock axle centerline location and guys that have moved it forward and back, curious what the final would look like with with fenders and cab and everything on. Currently my truck is basically a bare frame with just a box on it. I'll try posting my pictures on this post again.
Red Seal Journeyman John Deere Technician
1967 Ford F-100 - FE352 V8, 3 speed manual, 2WD, long bed, custom cab.
So I am not sure if the hole your mark is close to and the one on the bottom of the frame are perfectly in line vertically or horizontally for that matter. Here are a couple of shots with the spacers and bolts in as well as the front suspension.
Hoping to get the four link installed next weekend.
Power washed at the car wash to get all the oil and grease off. Then washed it with Dawn dishwashing soap at the house. From there is was a couple of rounds of Eagle 1 mag cleaner and then another round of washing it with Dawn dishwashing soap. Took it to the powder coated to get cleared.
Everything else was media blasted and powder coated black except the UCA’s as I bought those brand new. All the bolting was media blasted and coated with a clear zinc at one of the plating shops here locally.
