Lowering 1971 f250

[ebaby35]

Ok sorry if this has been asked but I cant find the answer. I'm trying to lower my 71' f250 but cant find any kits for it. There are lots for the f100 but not 250. What suspension components are different in the front for both. Can you turn a f250 into f100 so I can use available kits. Any help would be great

[sargentrs]

Unless I'm totally messed up, if you're talking 2wd, the only real difference between an F100 and an F250 is the beefiness of the I-beams and frame rails, the rear leaf springs, coil spring rating, bigger drum brakes and the addition of front disc brakes. Up to the 6200# GVW rating, the king pins are the same. 6900#+ GVW, the king pins are a little longer. Any F100 kit should fit, it's the strength of the components that would be questionable. The body builder's layout specs show both F100 and F250, dimensional, are the same.

http://www.fordification.com/tech/str-s ... ations.htm
http://www.fordification.com/tech/Ibeamsspindles.htm
http://www.fordification.com/tech/bodybuilder70.htm

[jamesdfo]

You can switch everything under your truck out for F100/150 stuff, but you will lose GVW capacity.

**F100 frame dimensions/thickness are in fact different than those of an F250

These guys have drop beams for 100/150/250/350:

http://www.airbagit.com/Lowering-I-Beams-s/1823.htm

[ebaby35]

so the djm dream beams should work on my f250?

You can switch everything under your truck out for F100/150 stuff, but you will lose GVW capacity.

**F100 frame dimensions/thickness are in fact different than those of an F250

These guys have drop beams for 100/150/250/350:

http://www.airbagit.com/Lowering-I-Beams-s/1823.htm

[twoton]

I lowered a 67 F250 last year with the airbaggit drop kit for the front. I bought the beams, the shocks, the tie rod kit, you will need a straight reamer for the king pin bushings. I bought a complete straight adjustable reamer kit from harbor frieght as I assumed it would be a 1 and done kind of thing. Kit was like 70.00.

Dont waste the money on the shocks. Buy a good set of factory shocks. The mounting position is the same and the ones they sell are fully extended when you install them. The factory ones worked much better.

I ended up putting a new set of factory coil springs on the truck and trimmed about 1-1/3 coil off of them.

The steering / tie rods / adjuster needs a little tweaking. I converted over to power steering and disc brakes while I was at it off a donor 77 2wd. Had to shorten the threaded part of the tied rod and center link so the toe could be set. Cut maybe a 1/2" off each and when it was aligned I had maybe a 1/8" between the 2 in the adjuster.

When I had it aligned we only had to set the toe. Everything else went together flawlessly and fit damn nice. My beams set maybe an inch off the frame snubbers with a 460 and ZF-5 speed combo.

I dont know how to post pics but heres a link to Pro-Systems facebook page. A pic of the truck is on there down about Oct. 9th 2018

https://m.facebook.com/pages/category/A ... 307153422/

[twoton]

I also did not use thier frame notch kit. I took a piece of 8" steel pipe and split it. Made my own weld in notch kit. The notch kit they sell is a bolt on the side of the frame re-inforcing kit.

You can convert the dana rear to disc brakes very easily with a bolt on all new component kit from LUGNUT 4×4. The kit uses a custom bolt on the housing caliper bracket and some mid ninetys Chevrolet calipers and rotors. Very very reasonable and a super nice set up for the money.

I converted to disc brakes on all 4 corners but mine are manual disc. I left the brake booster off as the camshaft I was wanting to run I was afraid wouldn't produce enough vacuum to run it. The 4 wheel manual disc is 200% better than the original manual drum setup.

Tire height and wheel width are really critical. I went with a 6" wide steel wheel and a 215-85-16 10 ply on the front and a 8" wide steel wheel with a 265-70-16 10 ply on the rear. Mine has the look I wanted but rub the inner fenders above the tread of you hit a big bump to fast. A shorter tire would cure this but the ground clearance will be less and the wheel wells wont look as full.

Sorry for the long winded post but I searched high and low and did not find much on lowering a F250 myself.

[twoton]

http://www.429-460.com/t25918p75-9-5-1-532-cam-question

Pictures are on page 4 . This is the engine build / cam selection thread for the truck.

[ebaby35]

so you used airbagit for the front, who did you end up using for the back and was it just a flip kit?

http://www.429-460.com/t25918p75-9-5-1-532-cam-question

Pictures are on page 4 . This is the engine build / cam selection thread for the truck.

[twoton]

Airbaggit for front and back, drop beams on front axle flip on rear. Ordered the frame notch kit, but did my own deal after looking how chinsy thiers was.

Posted some pics in the lowered bump section at the top of this page. Thanks Duck Ryder with the help with that.