What in gods name just happened (Help lol)

[crazzmc]

Okay so I bought my truck in August. And I haven't been driving it much because I've been traveling. this week I was driving it regularly. It had fuel smell and white smoke coming out of the exhausts (either it's rings or head gasket or so I thought) and it would never stay in park (pretty sure it's just the shift linkage but not sure).

Anyway those were the issues with my truck. Today I drove it for about an hour on the highway. And all of a sudden it parks and there is no white smoke or fuel smell just a normal exhaust smell. But I did notice some fresh oil splattered on the spark plugs. Here is the biggest issue though: it idles QUITE high. I thought it was just the adjustment screw but even if I turn it to the end it still doesn't slow down. Nothing else has been changed. I didn't hit any pot holes or anything crazy.

It seems like it's fixed half of my issues but brought some more along. My throttle link is a straight bar (guy before me converted it) and I haven't touched it at all. I'm not exactly sure what the easiest way to lower the idle is if someone can shed some insight that would be great. Just super confused right now.

If I put it in reverse or drive idle/revs drops back to normal. I am installing a tach tomorrow. Just got my awesome speed hut gauges.

Just super dumbfounded right now and not exactly sure what to make of today's events. If anyone can shed some light that would be awesome!

Thanks,

Raj

[basketcase0302]

"crazzmc"]
Okay so I bought my truck in August. And I haven't been driving it much because I've been traveling. this week I was driving it regularly. It had fuel smell and white smoke coming out of the exhausts (either it's rings or head gasket or so I thought) and it would never stay in park (pretty sure it's just the shift linkage but not sure).
Anyway those were the issues with my truck. Today I drove it for about an hour on the highway. And all of a sudden it parks and there is no white smoke or fuel smell just a normal exhaust smell. But I did notice some fresh oil splattered on the spark plugs. Here is the biggest issue though: it idles QUITE high. I thought it was just the adjustment screw but even if I turn it to the end it still doesn't slow down. Nothing else has been changed. I didn't hit any pot holes or anything crazy.
It seems like it's fixed half of my issues but brought some more along. My throttle link is a straight bar (guy before me converted it) and I haven't touched it at all. I'm not exactly sure what the easiest way to lower the idle is if someone can shed some insight that would be great. Just super confused right now.
If I put it in reverse or drive idle/revs drops back to normal. I am installing a tach tomorrow. Just got my awesome speed hut gauges.
Just super dumbfounded right now and not exactly sure what to make of today's events. If anyone can shed some light that would be awesome!
Thanks,
Raj

The tach is one of the best "tools" you can add to the truck-it will tell you many things but I don't believe it will tell you what's going on this time.
My money is on the fact that you have developed a vacuum leak somewhere on the truck, (and usually the first place I'd look is the 3" long 3/16" diameter short piece of rubber hose that connects the Tranny modulator valve to the steel line that runs up to the engine compartment). If it's not there buy a can of starting fluid, (not carb cleaner because it doesn't evaporate as quickly) and start spraying all intake gasket points and vacuum lines (even at the distributor.

[crazzmc]

"crazzmc"]
Okay so I bought my truck in August. And I haven't been driving it much because I've been traveling. this week I was driving it regularly. It had fuel smell and white smoke coming out of the exhausts (either it's rings or head gasket or so I thought) and it would never stay in park (pretty sure it's just the shift linkage but not sure).
Anyway those were the issues with my truck. Today I drove it for about an hour on the highway. And all of a sudden it parks and there is no white smoke or fuel smell just a normal exhaust smell. But I did notice some fresh oil splattered on the spark plugs. Here is the biggest issue though: it idles QUITE high. I thought it was just the adjustment screw but even if I turn it to the end it still doesn't slow down. Nothing else has been changed. I didn't hit any pot holes or anything crazy.
It seems like it's fixed half of my issues but brought some more along. My throttle link is a straight bar (guy before me converted it) and I haven't touched it at all. I'm not exactly sure what the easiest way to lower the idle is if someone can shed some insight that would be great. Just super confused right now.
If I put it in reverse or drive idle/revs drops back to normal. I am installing a tach tomorrow. Just got my awesome speed hut gauges.
Just super dumbfounded right now and not exactly sure what to make of today's events. If anyone can shed some light that would be awesome!
Thanks,
Raj

The tach is one of the best "tools" you can add to the truck-it will tell you many things but I don't believe it will tell you what's going on this time.
My money is on the fact that you have developed a vacuum leak somewhere on the truck, (and usually the first place I'd look is the 3" long 3/16" diameter short piece of rubber hose that connects the Tranny modulator valve to the steel line that runs up to the engine compartment). If it's not there buy a can of starting fluid, (not carb cleaner because it doesn't evaporate as quickly) and start spraying all intake gasket points and vacuum lines (even at the distributor.

Thanks for the info. I'll start looking for a leak. I started it up today and it definitely isn't as bad as last night but still idling decently high.

[crazzmc]

Double replied by accident

[Manny]

Shifting go funky like the modulator line came off? i have seen modulators leak causing atf to get sucked into the engine causing smoking running rough and such. Was it misfiring and you had a stuck valve fowled plug? Two odd ideas but again follow above with the vacuum leak check just dont forget to follow that vacuum line down to the transmission modulator.

[crazzmc]

Shifting go funky like the modulator line came off? i have seen modulators leak causing atf to get sucked into the engine causing smoking running rough and such. Was it misfiring and you had a stuck valve fowled plug? Two odd ideas but again follow above with the vacuum leak check just dont forget to follow that vacuum line down to the transmission modulator.

So this is my first vehicle that I am actually working on in my life haha. I know this I have a 302 with a C4 automatic transmission. The shifter is on the floor and its got the safety locks when it gets in certain gears so you cant push it out without pressing the release button (just like a modern automatic car)

P
R
N
D
D1

When I bought the vehicle it would lock in Park, Reverse, Neutral, and then I guess there's a Drive and a D1/D2 (low gear drive?) not sure, but there were multiple drives. For example if you were in Drive and you pushed the shifter all the way forward you would get into Neutral and it would lock.

Somewhere down the road between August and now it would lock in Park, Reverse, Drive. So if you pushed the shifter forward from D1 it would lock at Drive instead of Neutral. This is when I noticed it would roll when parked on a hill.

Until yesterday it went back to how it was when I bought it. It parks on a hill (without rolling) and it locks in Neutral instead of Drive.

I imagine something is off with my shift linkage. Still I believe this doesn't really explain the smoke/fuel smell (which is more than it was yesterday). Maybe it explains the idling issues?

Also I believe I may have found out that my oil splattering came from my valve covers. The gasket is terrible on it and I'll have to replace it because I stuck my finger under it and put light pressure on the gasket goo and fresh oil came out.

I'm researching on how to find a vacuum leak. I've been wiring all my gauges today and broke my damn speedo gear teeth. Had to order another one, working on the tach now. I believe I have a HEI distributor because there is 100% no ignition coil in my truck I traced every wire coming out of it thoroughly haha. It says Tach Bat on the top of the distributor, and I believe it leads back to the ignition coil as much as I can trace it. Looking at diagrams now to figure everything out.

So many issues haha I wish I knew more, i guess that's what I'm here to do, learn.

Sorry for the long post (and the tangents), hope this might help you understand my situation more.

[Manny]

Okay so by what i'm reading not seeing she's got some mods. No doubt i'd say you got a hei distributer in the motor by what you descirbe. Second is you got shifter issues and thats sketchy not staying in adjustment. i would chock the wheels disconnect the linkage and run the trans arm thru the detents and verify what you have under the truck. Then you can adjust your shifter to work with this. That issue may be compounded if its cable style shifter and the cable is junk strethching a such. But check your detents. Later c4 trans were park reverse neutral drive second lock and then first lock at the bottom. There were early c4 trans that were the double circles doubt you have one of those. The engine has me just confused but again i'm not standing next to her listening. I now know it has a hei distributor but what intake carb exhaust and such is on it look modified etc? I would say get yourself a vacuum gauge and a timing light then a few cans of carb cleaner so you can start hunting your leaks and see the condition of the engine. Another thing to consider doing is to pull your plugs and check them punch a carboard out and lay them out cylinder by cylinder then run your compression test and see what you have next to what plug. This gives you a overall idea of the general health of the engine. From there you know to start planning a replacement or you know you have a solid base and the issues are all down to carb and ignition. I'm kinda thinking you have some interesting issues but we all learn everyday, and you will get it running perfect. Most frustrating, but the most rewarding journey ever your embarking on. Be safe we are here to help!! By the way we need some pictures....

[crazzmc]

Okay so by what i'm reading not seeing she's got some mods. No doubt i'd say you got a hei distributer in the motor by what you descirbe. Second is you got shifter issues and thats sketchy not staying in adjustment. i would chock the wheels disconnect the linkage and run the trans arm thru the detents and verify what you have under the truck. Then you can adjust your shifter to work with this. That issue may be compounded if its cable style shifter and the cable is junk strethching a such. But check your detents. Later c4 trans were park reverse neutral drive second lock and then first lock at the bottom. There were early c4 trans that were the double circles doubt you have one of those. The engine has me just confused but again i'm not standing next to her listening. I now know it has a hei distributor but what intake carb exhaust and such is on it look modified etc? I would say get yourself a vacuum gauge and a timing light then a few cans of carb cleaner so you can start hunting your leaks and see the condition of the engine. Another thing to consider doing is to pull your plugs and check them punch a carboard out and lay them out cylinder by cylinder then run your compression test and see what you have next to what plug. This gives you a overall idea of the general health of the engine. From there you know to start planning a replacement or you know you have a solid base and the issues are all down to carb and ignition. I'm kinda thinking you have some interesting issues but we all learn everyday, and you will get it running perfect. Most frustrating, but the most rewarding journey ever your embarking on. Be safe we are here to help!! By the way we need some pictures....

Thinking about taking it to a buddy of mine who knows more considering my driveway is hilly and I'm chocking it every night haha. If I'm honest the shifter does look dinky and not well made.

Yeah I checked my plugs some were sooty and dry-ish and others were wet. Plug themselves were dark brown, the wet ones were just loaded with oil. I'm going to run a compression test. Its got a summit racing intake and it looks like a double-barrel performance holley carb. no idea on the exhaust got 2 pipes running all the way to the back with some chrome finishes that the end.

The guy I bought it from didn't know much, he did say that you start off in D1 and then go to Drive. I do it, but I'm not sure if it really makes a difference, sometimes I've driven off just in Drive.

The guy before that supposedly want to make it into more of a "racing" truck and wanted higher quality parts. Apparently he also re-built the 302, so he says it has 5,000 miles on it, but I'm honestly not sure. I got some pictures of the carb/intake, etc, i'll post them tomorrow phone is dead and I'm about to knock out. Got my tach gauge working though. Pretty excited, just got my water temp to go, which I have had issues with before (either a dud from autozone, or that teflon tape not letting me ground it properly cause that damn distributor does get in the way of tightening that sucker.)

Anyway I do appreciate the feedback Manny. I'll start hunting.

[sargentrs]

The vacuum gauge can also tell you a lot about what's going on with the engine. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

[basketcase0302]

"crazzmc"]

Shifting go funky like the modulator line came off? i have seen modulators leak causing atf to get sucked into the engine causing smoking running rough and such. Was it misfiring and you had a stuck valve fowled plug? Two odd ideas but again follow above with the vacuum leak check just dont forget to follow that vacuum line down to the transmission modulator.

So this is my first vehicle that I am actually working on in my life haha. I know this I have a 302 with a C4 automatic transmission. The shifter is on the floor and its got the safety locks when it gets in certain gears so you cant push it out without pressing the release button (just like a modern automatic car)
P
R
N
D
D1
When I bought the vehicle it would lock in Park, Reverse, Neutral, and then I guess there's a Drive and a D1/D2 (low gear drive?) not sure, but there were multiple drives. For example if you were in Drive and you pushed the shifter all the way forward you would get into Neutral and it would lock.
Somewhere down the road between August and now it would lock in Park, Reverse, Drive. So if you pushed the shifter forward from D1 it would lock at Drive instead of Neutral. This is when I noticed it would roll when parked on a hill.
Until yesterday it went back to how it was when I bought it. It parks on a hill (without rolling) and it locks in Neutral instead of Drive.
I imagine something is off with my shift linkage. Still I believe this doesn't really explain the smoke/fuel smell (which is more than it was yesterday). Maybe it explains the idling issues?
Also I believe I may have found out that my oil splattering came from my valve covers. The gasket is terrible on it and I'll have to replace it because I stuck my finger under it and put light pressure on the gasket goo and fresh oil came out.
I'm researching on how to find a vacuum leak. I've been wiring all my gauges today and broke my damn speedo gear teeth. Had to order another one, working on the tach now. I believe I have a HEI distributor because there is 100% no ignition coil in my truck I traced every wire coming out of it thoroughly haha. It says Tach Bat on the top of the distributor, and I believe it leads back to the ignition coil as much as I can trace it. Looking at diagrams now to figure everything out.
So many issues haha I wish I knew more, i guess that's what I'm here to do, learn.
Sorry for the long post (and the tangents), hope this might help you understand my situation more.

Nope it's not just your imagination! Ford had a very serious issue with the C-4 transmissions back in the 1970's, (those of us old enough to remember it will never forget it). There was a major recall on the C-4 automatic transmission back in 1981 due to many folks losing their lives when the C-4 expectantly jumped from park to reverse running them over and killing them. The guy that sold you that truck knew about the tranny I guarantee it and i would go back and kick his @ss for not mentioning it to you due to how dangerous it is! The problem in the C-4 wound up being the "parking pawl lever" (I'll see if I can post the image of it in the files here. I had a 1971 Maverick that did it-I was seen more than once chasing my own car down the street-can happen both when the engine was left running or off as the weight of the linkage causes it to fall down from park to reverse.
Here's the recall that made the top of the list of recalls:

https://jalopnik.com/these-are-the-10-b ... 1689270859

And here's the image of the parking pawl, (the part on the C-4 that is to fault. Get this truck to a transmission shop, (a good experienced one that has been around awhile) and let them know walking in the door about the recall and what this truck is doing-before it hurts someone!
And here's where the parking pawl is, (you have to pull the pan and valve body to get to it)-worthy of taking to a shop as an inexperienced mechanic can do many things wrong here making it worse.

[DuckRyder]

Some pictures might help.

Like of the engine and shifter. Maybe the transmission linkage at the trans too...

[crazzmc]

Alright I'm on a flight right now uploading images haha it's taking forever. Until that's done I'll give you guys an update.

Finished most of my gauges. They look absolutely stunning. I'll add that pic as well.

After I finished installing my gauges I went to go take it for a ride. Still idling high actually shaking a bit in drive now too. Rolled it down the driveway and started putting my foot down and I had no throttle. I push it down to the limit it just revs a tiny bit and then dies out. Okay odd whatever put it back in park and started it back up same thing. Let it sit on the side of the road on for a bit. Then I got some throttle. And of course 10 seconds later... nothing. So at this point I'm at the end of my street. Pop it in reverse and back all the way back up a quarter mile up a hill into my driveway.

Turned it off and it's sitting there and I'm going away for a week. I'm so confused. The only thing that is different now is the tach negative terminal from the distributor is now wired to my tachometer and there is no speedometer gear teeth in my transmission because I snapped it yesterday. I did plug up the hole with the old speedo cable no leaks. Everything else is just electrical. Starts up perfectly fine. Fuel smell is back and white smoke randomly.

The worst part though is that it sprayed oil out of the tailpipes when I started it. I have pictures of everything. Uploading soon.

[Manny]

Seriously got some questions on this thing. Miss matched plug colors is not the best but got some stuff to sort out. Keep your old plugs but definitely get a new set also the right temp spark plugs. Get the correct code for the motor not just replace whats in it if somebody has cold plugs some hot rodder thought was right. Curious of the carb and all but we will get it sorted out. As for the transmission follow Basketcase. Man has encyclopedic knowledge on the old fords as he worked at the dealer and carried many of these classic from the showroom floor to many many miles covered. Never knew the c4 trans update/recall but i do now. The engine pumping oil out the exhaust makes me curious of carb and fuel flooding etc etc... May have been a hot rod rebuilt engine but by whom and how. I'm curious of this need to get you a build thread going and add some pictures to see this thing and help you get it sorted.

[crazzmc]

Created a Build Guide (more like problem guide) with all pictures and a video of the truck. Figured it would be easier to start there.

http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopi ... 22&t=86821