Wisdom of removing tank

[GPatrick]

Hi, First post after lurking for a while. I bought a RWD 1970 F250 Camper Special about a year ago and have done a lot of work mainly on brakes, headers and complete exhaust, 4 barrel conversion, front suspension, anti-sway bar, etc. Runs great, stops somewhat, and handles a lot better. What started as a repair of some hood damage from a previous owner a few weeks ago has led to the whole front clip off the truck. While I am at it and since I have to do some minor repairs to the front passenger cab mount I decided to replace all the cab mount bushings. To get to the rears, I had to pull the auxiliary tank and I am going to have to pull the behind the seat tank as well. I seem to see a lot of posts of people moving to rear mounted tanks and removing the in the cab tank. Mine is in good condition but I don't really need two tanks. So, now the actual question - Does it make sense to run only the auxiliary tank? I am going to have the aux tank cleaned and tested and if it all checks out, I thought I would re-route some fuel lines, eliminate the valve, and leave the in-cab tank out. Is there a reason I should have it?

Great site - I have learned a lot and it has been a big help on my current project. Maybe I'll run into some of the Colorado folks when I'm back on the road.

Gary

[tac]

A tank is a tank. Functionally it doesn't really mater where it is. Some feel safer when they don't have one in the cab, but then you have to cover the the filler hole. If you remove it there will be more storage behind the seat.

[GPatrick]

After posting I saw a link to a tech discussion on the subject. Thanks for the reply - a tank is a tank... As long as the aux tank cleans up well, the in-cab tank is coming out. The aux tank appears to be fully baffled and I already built my exhaust around it. The PO said it was empty but it turns out it was nearly full of rotten smelly gas. Now I'm trying to figure out what to do with it all.

[eggman918]

I had the bad fuel problem with a parts truck i bought a few years ago and luckily foe me Bakersfield CA had a haz-mat recycle/disposal facility that was no/low cost to private citizens,I called them and they told me the packaging requirements and they took it off my hands.They are great they will take most any household,garage or work shop chemicals there only restriction is the quantity that you can bring at one time,but that is related to transporting it not them taking it so if you have a lot you will be asked to make more than one trip.

[GPatrick]

Thanks. I just checked with our local county hazardous waste disposal and they take gas. $20 for up to 75 pounds of waste. Not a bad deal.

[eggman918]

That sounds fair............would be better if it were free,but it's not cheap to deal with that type of stuff.The easier you make it for people to be responsible the less of it that ends up in our ground water.

[Ranchero50]

Locally you just have to punch a bunch of 1" holes in the tank for the scrappers to take it. A pick works great.

The only real downside to the in cab tank is the lack of in cab storage. That's the only reason I'd remove mine.

[GPatrick]

I just got a quote yesterday to restore my auxiliary tank - tank it, blast it, line it, and paint it. On the low end it is $200. But, any used tank will probably need that or more to make it work well and I already have all the mounting brackets, etc. so I'll probably have it done. I won't sell the in-cab tank until I get confirmation that my aux tank can be saved.

The pickup/sending unit is shot and the hoses are gone. I found a replacement sending unit but the hoses are a mystery. Anyone know what hoses fit an original 1970 aux tank? Several look close from the mid 70's but they show them fitting behind the axle tanks.

[flyboy2610]

I've always thought that if you're in an accident bad enough to rupture that in cab tank, you probably don't need to worry about being burned to death.

[Ranchero50]

On my truck the aux tank was just a length of 3/8 or 5/16" hard line run up towards the cab floor in the frame cross members to where the valve was located. I'm sure you could fab one simply out of 3/8" brake line from NAPA.

For my diesel swap I ran the brake line and one hole strapped it to the cab cross member. The install was very clean and I shouldn't have to ever worry about corrosion with the green coating on the lines. In the pic you can see the original hard line still in the frame pocket.

[GPatrick]

That blue underneath sure makes it easier to see what you are working on. I'll have to look at that diesel conversion in the future if the old FE dies. That helps on the tank to carb fuel line but I should have been more clear. My large fill hose was cracked and damaged and that is the one that I need to find. DC has two styles for later model years but neither looks just right. D5TZ-9047-D at http://dennis-carpenter.com/fuel-tank-f ... TZ-9047-D/ looks pretty close in the picture but when I called they weren't sure it would fit.

[Ranchero50]

Exhaust pipe and NAPA hose by the foot for the ends. I want to say $20 / foot for 2" hose.

My truck was formerly a camper body so the aux tank was just straight pipe with hose on the ends.

[GPatrick]

Thanks for your help!