How to rebuild an automatic steering column - Completed

[sargentrs]

Slide the steering shaft into the bottom end of the housing.

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and insert the upper column bearing retainer. It's the white plastic piece around the steering shaft.

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and add the upper column spring

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[sargentrs]

On the bottom of the steering wheel is an extrusion that acts as the turn signal cancelling cam.Line up the steering wheel so that this cam sits in the center of the turn signal cam, between the TSS and the steering shaft.

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Slide the steering wheel on and press down to compress the spring and thread the nut on to hold it in place.

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Then screw in the turn signal lever.

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[sargentrs]

Stick the harness pins back into the harness plug, torque the steering column nut and you're ready to put her back in.

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[sargentrs]

I haven't put the neutral safety switch back on yet because I still have to paint the column. Hope this helps somebody out some time and I have tons of other pics during the process. If anybody needs a different view, I'll see if I have it.

[tbone6]

This is an excellent post! I have no doubt that it will benefit more than a few of us. I did the top of my column a few weeks ago, I may decide to tackle the whole thing now! I think this "how to" is worth stickin in the tech section...

[sargentrs]

Thanks, tbone! Tie that rope on it before you pull the tube flange off and pull the wiring harness out to keep from scraping your harness when you remove the shift collar. I figured that out when I went to put it back in and wish I had done it at disassembly. Scraped the insulation off of one of the wires dragging the shift collar across them.

[Green23]

Great writeup! I just finished rebuilding my '68 manual column, and found an easy way to install those square-head tube flange bolts. Just install them in position on the flange with the small nuts started 1 or 2 turns, then while holding the entire column assembly vertical install the flange over the shift collar and wiggle a bit. The square heads will seat themselves down in the 2 slots and can then be easily tightened. I suspect this is how they were originally installed as there is no sign of grease, glue, etc. on the bolts when first removed. Great pictures on your rebuld!

[sargentrs]

Thanks, Green! Duh! That's a good idea. The simplest things elude me sometimes.

[flyboy2610]

Nice write up! That column looks great!

[sargentrs]

Thanks flyboy! Couldn't have done it without your shift collar.

[colnago]

Thanks for sharing your write-up! My truck was converted from a COM trans to a C-6 somewhere in the last 45 years, so my shift collar doesn't match the rest of the column. Probably means I have to go through all of these steps to take the collar off, so I can repaint it, then put it all back together again. I'm grateful that there is a step-by-step reference to come back to.

Joseph

[sargentrs]

Thanks Joseph! Hope you find it helpful.

[sgtbigjim]

Great info, I'm in the process of doing my steering column also. I have the problem of having different year parts that I don't know what is what. The PO put P/S on the truck from a 77? My truck is a 70 f100. Having trouble getting parts since it has different wiring plugs, collars etc. Your article was very helpful. Is there a way to check the bearing to see if they need to be replaced?

Thanks

Jim

[sargentrs]

Just a visual and "wiggle" test. Watch the bottom of the column while someone abuses the steering wheel, snatch, yank, turn lock to lock, etc. Also look closely at the lower bearing area. You can see, in the first few photos, how mine had come apart. You should see virtually no movement at the bottom of the column except the shaft rotating. If the steering wheel feels good, you're probably OK. For a visual on the upper bearing, remove your steering wheel and the retainer around the turn signal switch. You can see your upper bearing. Again, the inner and outer races should not be separated. Same bearing goes in both top and bottom.

[sgtbigjim]

Just a visual and "wiggle" test. Watch the bottom of the column while someone abuses the steering wheel, snatch, yank, turn lock to lock, etc. Also look closely at the lower bearing area. You can see, in the first few photos, how mine had come apart. You should see virtually no movement at the bottom of the column except the shaft rotating. If the steering wheel feels good, you're probably OK. For a visual on the upper bearing, remove your steering wheel and the retainer around the turn signal switch. You can see your upper bearing. Again, the inner and outer races should not be separated. Same bearing goes in both top and bottom.

Cool, thanks for the info!